The Cook's Shelf
Douglas J. Levy of The Oakland Press
"About Professional Baking: The Essentials," by Gail Sokol, Thomson Delmar Learning, $55. Ever wanted to learn the intricacies within the 12 steps of yeast dough production? The seven categories of frosting? Or how to make a croquembouche, which is a tower of cream-filled puffs covered with a cagelike caramel coating? If so, or if being a professional pastry chef or baker is a career option, this is the guide for you. Because it's written in the "professional" tone, it doesn't read like the normal kind of baking book, as the ingredients are listed through charts, the introductions to each recipe point out the lessons to be learned from it (for example, how eggs coagulate when being heated for a custard or how starches prevent egg proteins from curdling) and the occasional scientific diagram is presented. Consider it a worthy textbook for you to give yourself an education in baking for a lot less than enrolling in a school for it, but remember that the lab supplies - i.e., flour, sugar, equipment - are your responsibility